Dalamara, Paliokalias, Greece, 2019
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Kostis Dalamara is a sixth-generation winemaker in Naoussa, a historic region in Macedonia associated with aromatic, ageworthy Xinomavro. After spending time at Domaines Trapet, Giboulot, and Clos du Rouge Gorge – producers known for their traditional farming and winemaking methods – Kostis introduced organics, spontaneous fermentations, and reduced sulphur dioxide levels when taking over his family’s estate in 2010.
His flagship is the single-vineyard ‘Paliokalias’, a south-facing, ungrafted vineyard of old-vine Xinomavro in the foothills of Mount Vermio. Perfumed and elegant, with nuances of spices and dried herbs underneath a concentrated fruit character, it has emerged as one of Greece’s finest reds. Firmly structured and mineral, truffle and mushroom notes will unfurl over the next two decades.